The Wine Review by Kathryn Glass
Issue 46:
The Mid-Summer
Night’s Dream
As I chase my ZZZ’s I dream…of a Baroque bed in a ramshackle farmhouse, the sun mischievously edging its way through the faded curtains. I rise and venture out for a walk, the fresh smells of rosemary, or perhaps it is thyme, softening my usual morning grumpiness. Why, I might even be pleasant before twelve o' clock if I lived in this place?
Then, from out of the azure blue, I raise my eyes to the horizon and there it is..'For Sale'. My barn of dreams! OK, so it needed a woman's touch and maybe also the help of a strong team of hundreds to make it into my chateau, or even something resembling liveable, but the land and the view are ‘priceless’.
In my dream I pay for it in coppers, and with a wave of the hand it is inhabitable, and I can sit on my balcony in the sun overlooking higgledy rows of my own vineyards…And then with the piercing bleeps of my alarm I’m smack bang back to reality.
Fortunately, wine is one of those rare things that can transport you instantly back to a place or time as smell and taste are two of the senses closely linked to our memories. All I need to do to revel in the uniqueness of a terroir such as the Tuscan hills or the foothills of the Langue d’Oc is to sip une verre du vin and let my mind drift off once more. As I’m saving up for my Chateau, I’m glad I have found some wines that fit in with my pocket as well as satisfying my palate.
• Domaine Tranquillite, Vin de Pays D' Oc 2005, Bernard Magret, £5.99* – Not as antiquarian as my farmhouse, but one sip of this full-bodied yet silky textured wine, oozing luscious red fruits, shows off the quality of mature fruit that comes from the 25 year old vines. The warming character of well integrated oak imparts a hint of nutmeg on this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, with a soft, subtle spicy, plummy finish. Accompany this with a steaming plate of cassoulet and I am transported to the heartland of the Occitan. Ah, reminds me of the home I never had!
• Via Vecchio, Collezione Montepulciano, £3.50** - This is an easy drinking style with ripe black cherries on the palate and smooth, subtle tannins. The slight lift of acidity balances the rich fruit flavours and makes it imminently quaffable. I can picture mama right now serving up the spaghetti Bolognese to the whole family, whilst uncle Giovani Panzanini pours this liberally into their glasses (poetic licence expressed – the Italian family is optional).
*Available from Majestic Wine Warehouse Ltd (min purchase 6 bottles, any mix). Guide Price only
**Available from Asda. Guide Price only
Issue 44:
I tried to use a Northern Ireland bank note this morning and the cashier held it up to the light scrutinising it for five minutes, only to have to call the manager over, whilst the eyes of an ever growing queue burned into my back, before it was eventually accepted.
Well, I suppose to a lot of people it is funny money, but it clearly states sterling on it. I wish it was Monopoly money because that means I could double it and triple it, buy houses and hotels like a real estate mogul, flit across town as the pile of £100s kept stacking up, and never be denied entry due to wearing just one old boot. As a freckly youngster in pigtails I never lost at this board game and, although I have been lording it over my sibling for many years, there is just one simple trick to it, which I am about to divulge in front of your very eyes. With a slide of hand that would make any magician jealous I mastered the art of robbing the bank. So, it was easy, I was always the banker, and yes, maybe I should feel bad and I do. That is why I’m admitting to it right now, especially as my brother is safely out of the country at the moment and not likely to give me a Chinese burn. I shall punish myself in the interests of karma by rolling the dice three times and hoping for a double. I am a reformed character these days and in my crusade for fairness I am about to let you into another closely guarded secret … Value for money (of the real crisp sort) lurks on the off-licence shelves. You just need to know how to decipher the label.
• Chateau Guiot, Costieres de Nimes £6.99*
Leave the Konunga Hills on the supermarket shelves, because this is the type of standard we grew to expect from the illustrious maker of Grange (at £120 a go for a recent vintage I’ll leave that one on the shelf too though). This is anything but an easy going Southern Australian. It has mouthfuls of blackberries, plum and black cherries on the palate, as well as layers of spice, held together impeccably with a robust gripping tannins, that would ensure this full-bodied wine would age without botox for a good 5-10 years, smoothing out the edges and developing those secondary characteristics. The savoury nature and succulence continues just like good neighbours.
• Castillo des Estables, La Mancha, Gran Reserva 2002 £5.99*
If this were a Rioja it would certainly command the price of Mayfair as opposed to Pall Mall, but it is still a surprising contender in terms of what you get for your money. Both made from the same grape, Tempranillo, this is an alternative with more subtle tannins. Its ageing in oak gives it a cedary smokiness that combined with a medium bodied mouth feel of stewed plums and blackberries, makes it seem more mature than its age. Community Chest tells you that you have won second prize in a beauty contest. Take the cash and buy two bottles for the price of a Rioja.
*Available from all good stockists
**Available from Majestic Wine Warehouse Ltd (minimum purchase six bottles in total)
Issue 43:
As I ease myself gently into the armchair of the new decade and try to get comfortable, I realise that there is something unsettling stirring in the air around me that I can’t quite fathom. It is distracting but still very welcome… It is the expectation of the new, the possible and the unexplored!
This is no time for plumping down into the cosy fabric of slovenliness and watching life pass us by on the television, no matter how captivating the latest ‘I was once a celebrity and now I’m in fat club, dancing for survival’ is. This is the beginning of the 2010s and this is our era! We are fortunate enough to have witnessed and learned from the highlights and armpits of past decades, so we are equipped with retro paraphernalia and cliff notes to steer us towards our future. Matters not if the experiences were secondhand as others have left a media trail consisting of tie-dyed t-shirts, acid faces, lava lamps, shoulder pads, bandanas, luminous ankle warmers and Terry Wogan, to guide us through it all again.
Of course, there is always the inevitable circle of life so pause the television and the eight track may make a reappearance, but really, should we rest on our laurels and wait patiently for the hippy/ punk/ disco/ soul/ rave/ grunge/ indie/ electro revamp to happen? We need to jump up, run into the strobe lights of life, and shout…Show me the future and make mine inspirational! Or at least make it full-bodied, sumptuous, and full of potential!
• De Martino Carmenere, Chile £6.99*
Heralding the New World, this vibrant, ruby red has an intensity of plum fruits and cassis that knock other Carmeneres down in its path. The tempting back notes of dark chocolate give added richness to its full-bodied palate, whereas the smoothness of the tannins mean it is always pleasurable company. Start as you mean to go on.
• Guigal Cotes du Rhone, Rhone, France £7.99*
This beast of a wine attacks the taste buds head on, with powerful bramble fruits, blackberries and blackcurrants, tannin to match and a garrigue herbaceousness; all supremely integrated according to tradition and respect from a long standing reputable producer. Let the past catch up with you just this once.
*This is a guide price. Available from all good stockists.
Issue 42:
As I ease myself gently into the armchair of the new decade and try to get comfortable, I realise that there is something unsettling stirring in the air around me that I can’t quite fathom. It is distracting but still very welcome… It is the expectation of the new, the possible and the unexplored!
This is no time for plumping down into the cosy fabric of slovenliness and watching life pass us by on the television, no matter how captivating the latest ‘I was once a celebrity and now I’m in fat club, dancing for survival’ is. This is the beginning of the 2010s and this is our era! We are fortunate enough to have witnessed and learned from the highlights and armpits of past decades, so we are equipped with retro paraphernalia and cliff notes to steer us towards our future. Matters not if the experiences were secondhand as others have left a media trail consisting of tie-dyed t-shirts, acid faces, lava lamps, shoulder pads, bandanas, luminous ankle warmers and Terry Wogan, to guide us through it all again.
Of course, there is always the inevitable circle of life so pause the television and the eight track may make a reappearance, but really, should we rest on our laurels and wait patiently for the hippy/ punk/ disco/ soul/ rave/ grunge/ indie/ electro revamp to happen? We need to jump up, run into the strobe lights of life, and shout…Show me the future and make mine inspirational! Or at least make it full-bodied, sumptuous, and full of potential!
• De Martino Carmenere, Chile £6.99*
Heralding the New World, this vibrant, ruby red has an intensity of plum fruits and cassis that knock other Carmeneres down in its path. The tempting back notes of dark chocolate give added richness to its full-bodied palate, whereas the smoothness of the tannins mean it is always pleasurable company. Start as you mean to go on.
• Guigal Cotes du Rhone, Rhone, France £7.99*
This beast of a wine attacks the taste buds head on, with powerful bramble fruits, blackberries and blackcurrants, tannin to match and a garrigue herbaceousness; all supremely integrated according to tradition and respect from a long standing reputable producer. Let the past catch up with you just this once.
*This is a guide price. Available from all good stockists.
Issue 41:
Twinkling lights and happy hearts
I saw mummy kissing Santa Claus, underneath the mistletoe last night... Baubles and bubbles, tinsel and trees, fairies and festivities, choirs and candles, shopping, shopping and more shopping, have become all part and gift-wrapped parcel of this frenzied time of year but really.. I have to draw a line at having a large-bellied, mince pie loving, white bearded, married man making improper moves on my mother! I can trace the origins of their romance back to the day when he, in dapper mood, laid his fuzzy red coat down for her to step over a slushy puddle one nearly white Christmas, but after 12 days and a partridge in a pear tree, he disappeared off with not even a bell to say where to, leaving her heartbroken and sobbing whilst listening to Wham (although that quite often has the same effect on me for other reasons).
Of course I am joking... Albeit a very poor attempt at humour in order to raise my weary spirits, after what can only be the hardest time of the year for any wine merchant. No, I apologise for seeing the glass half full, although when the excesses of the season have taken their toll on our midriffs perhaps this is no bad thing. However, my one tip to keep us all going well into the New Year is to focus on happiness. Let’s think not about expense and expanse, but revel in the moments spent with friends, family and loved ones, with a glass in hand and warm cheer in your hearts.
Wither Hills Pinot Noir, New Zealand
£12.99*
A moment spent contemplating the opulent red berried fruits that brim seductively onto the palate is a moment to treasure. Tannins so soft, body so smooth, the cherries, raspberries and cranberries that burst onto the taste buds leave us savouring them long after we have set the glass down. Slight earthiness and hints of cedar are integrated finely and perfectly into the balance, like holly is to ivy.
Taylors 10 year old Tawny Port
£17.99*
If you can smell the chestnuts roasting on an open fire, and soft scents of Christmas pudding wafting in from the kitchen, this is close to the nose on this fortified wine. The palate brings black berries and blackcurrants, with more complex undertones of dried fruits such as raisins and figs, and the balance of sweetness, alcohol and fruits make it the perfect supping accompaniment to any winter occasion.
* This is a guide price. Products available from all good wine merchants
Issue 40:
It’s about time that I used my space in the city’s media pages to bring to your attention to a grave and plummeting problem that unless radically addressed may lead to the complete extinction of an entire species. I am talking about the ability to buy a decent bottle of dry sherry, and before you write me off as some cardigan wearing, rocking chair, blue-haired fanatic I have got news for all you cosmopolitan culture vultures. Sherry does not signify hip-replacement in Spain, but is just plain ‘hip’, and not only is it hand-crafted, but it represents top value for dinero. An award-winning producer was recently asked by my esteemed colleague on a booze cruise, er, sorry, on a research tasting with work, exactly how he perfects his craft producing such reputable wines and his answer was simply, ‘by magic’.
Of course this was backed up entirely by his glamorous assistant, Senora Debbie McGee. No, I will not bore you with the details of the complex Solera ageing process from which three vintages up to thirty plus can be skilfully blended together, nor will I try to dispel the myths that surround it such as Manzanilla tastes salty because it is aged in barrels close to the sea, because I love the poetry in this legend alone. Don Quixote’s fantasy legacy built for Spain an iconic image, the beauty and texture of language earned Cervantes his place as one of the world’s foremost classic authors. Sherry is the quiet hero of Jerez and though it may not immediately appeal, read that first chapter and feel the story unfold your senses.
NV Manzanilla La Gitana, Hidalgo £7.29*
At the extremity of dryness, the salacious freshness of character clips the taste buds, offering citrus pith, apple skin and almonds on the palate culminating in a well-balanced umami savoury finish. The tears on the glass denote not only its fortification but its decline in popularity in the UK market. Take the geek out for a dance, the gypsy kings on the wireless, some olives and pancetta, and delight in the transformation.
NV Palo Cortado Viejo C.P. Sherry £30 (FW)
An amber core with a complex nose reminiscent of rum and raison ice cream. On the palate we get a dry orange zest, a freshness of bitter marmalade combined with coffee toasted beans. It offers subtle myriads teasing all the senses and seeming to delightfully linger forever. The swarthy stranger we once passed by becomes the one to whom we whisper, “Te quiero.”
*This is a guide price. Available from all good stockists
FW – This is a fine wine product, only sold by specialist merchants.
Issue 39:
The dandelion clocks have signaled nature’s awakening. The first strums of summer weave through open spaces resting upon the ears of Yorkshire, whispering melody into life. It’s a great time to be outside - senses alive like ice clinking against a frosted glass. I am transported to a moment years ago, when I discovered a lone scarlet flower growing from a crack in the pavement jungle, where my grotty flat was. Such an unlikely place to find beauty creeping up on you. It basked the neighbourhood with possibility and my heart leapt in the light of a new season to pass.
Once again, with hemlines getting shorter, daylight lengthening and a beat of excitement in the air, I find myself in cheery spirits. And it appears I’m not alone. Happiness is spreading like the flowers are sprouting, and wine is flowing...
• Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, N. Zealand - £7.99 - £9.99*
Lashings of crisp, ripe tropical fruits such as gooseberries, pineapples and limes refresh the palate with zingy acidity and a long-lashing mineral finish. It’s like being overwhelmed in 30 degrees and stepping barefoot onto a cool slate floor.
• Banfi Pinot Grigio, Tuscany, Italy - £6.79 - £8.99*
Condensation dripping down the glass to the pale lemon core of this summer elixir. A delicate light wine with well-married crispness of character, citrus fruits and subtle floral edge that sets the bar in terms of elegance and length for all other Pinot Grigios that may follow. A cool breeze drifting over Tuscany’s rolling hills straight into your back garden.
*This is a guide price. Available from all good stockists
Issue 37:
As the tributaries of the river Aire appear to be washing down my living room window, I fleetingly wonder if the Met Office has got it wrong altogether.
However, ever the optimist, I refuse to be downtrodden by the cynicism of my sceptic left brain and have decided to charge into the light armed with tartan rug, factor 25 and gleaming barbeque (barely used last year). Should the wind blow up in my face, the rain dampen my spirits and the cloud darken this summertime sensation, I have this year’s perfect must have accessories for inner warmth. Think citrus! Vibrancy is in, but feel free to deviate from the pattern as self-expression is always the key. Here is what’s in my cabinet this season:
Traditional Sangria - Dressed for Party of four
Slice and mix those citrus colours. Seville Orange (x2), lemon (x2) and vibrant lime (x2). Add 100g caster sugar and 12cl Aged 3 years (plus) Brandy (£8.99* per 70cl bottle) and leave to contemplate in the fridge. Then, I advise, adding splash of red (1 bottle – Yali Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenere - £4.99*) and chilling overnight. Should be ready to exhibit after this but look in the mirror first. Does this reflect your taste? If not, add some fruit juice until you agree. Get ready for a cosmopolitan visit to the city of Fun!
Grand Esprit - Dressed for Party of four
The National BBQ Association’s Gastro Alfresco Campaign are touting a mix of 20cl Grand Marnier (£26.99* per 70cl bottle) and Elderflower Cordial (45cl), paired with Soda Water (15cl), again with that citrus mix of sliced lemon (x2), lime (x2) with a small strawberry stripe (x3). It’s new, it’s fresh and exciting!
It was a rainbow sky of amber, pinks and scarlet this evening, which harps back to the old proverb, “Red sky at night, citizens of Leeds delight!”
*This is a guide price. Available from all good stockists
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